Exploring the Earth and Sky of the West

Posts tagged “Washington

Exploring the Mt. Adams Wilderness

Sunrise from our campsite in a lava flow on the north side of Mt. Adams

Mt. Adams is the largest (by volume) and second highest volcano in the Cascade Range of Washington. Often overshadowed by its neighbors, Mt. Rainier, Mt. St. Helens, and Mt. Hood, we’ve taken a liking to Adams in part because its trails tend to be relatively deserted and in part because we have a fantastic view of the mountain’s east face from our neighborhood in the Yakima Valley. Recently we had the chance to complete a short backpacking trip on the north flank of the mountain which allowed us vantage points that far surpass anything we’ve seen on previous day hikes.

Our hike began and ended at a trailhead (Killen Creek) that is, as the crow flies, just 57 miles from our front door, but takes more than three hours to reach by car, giving some sense as to the relative remoteness of this area. Most of our ~20 mile loop was within the Mt. Adams Wilderness, a 48,000 acre wilderness area designated in 1964 with the original passage of the Wilderness Act.

Heading up the mountain

On our first night, we camped at just under 7,000 feet on the north flank of the mountain in one of the most spectacular alpine meadows I’ve seen. No matter which way I turned, the views were extraordinary. To our south, the crumbling volcanic edifice of Mt. Adams loomed large, with the Adams Glacier descending in a stunning icefall from the summit plateau. To the north, broad expanses of dense evergreen forest stretched off into the distance, leading the eye to the massive Mt. Rainier and the rugged skyline of the Goat Rocks on the horizon. To the west, the truncated cone of Mt. St. Helens was backlit by the setting sun. Several lingering snowfields surrounded our campsite, providing a nice source of clear, cold water. A variety of diminutive alpine wildflowers were in full bloom, and the low rumble of rock and ice fall high on the mountain occasionally punctuated the silence, with clouds of dust the only clue as to their location. While this location is reachable by a long day hike, spending the night and being able to explore and photograph in the late afternoon and evening light is one of my favorite things about backpacking!

The northwest face of Mt. Adams, dominated by the massive icefall of the Adams Glacier
Massive blocks of ice in the Adams Glacier near the summit of Mt. Adams
Looking west at sunset, through a thin but noticeable layer of wildfire smoke drifting in from fires around the west
Looking west toward Mt. St. Helens at sunset
An hour later, the same vantage point provided a glimpse of the crescent moon over Mt. St. Helens

On Day 2, we descended to the Pacific Crest Trail before working our way around to the northeast side of Mt. Adams, passing through a series of wildflower-filled meadows and crossing several inviting streams cascading down from melting snowfields and glaciers higher on the mountain. These meadows also hosted a robust population of mosquitos and other biting insects….not unexpected for the Cascades in July, but an annoyance nonetheless, especially for an Arizona-born desert rat like me!

Creek crossing on the Pacific Crest Trail north of Mt. Adams
Magenta paintbrush (Castilleja parviflora)
Beargrass (Xerophyllum tenax), one of my favorite Cascade wildflowers

We had shared the trail with quite a few other hikers and backpackers on Day 1, but saw only a few other people from this point forward. Camp on night two was in a small clump of trees on the edge of a relatively recent lava flow. In contrast to the verdant alpine meadows of night one, this landscape was much more rugged, barren, and stark. After setting up our tent, we proceeded up the trail (with much lighter packs!) to find a spot for dinner. We quickly arrived at a stream crossing that we didn’t feel comfortable fording, so we left the trail behind and proceeded to pick our way up the rubbly bank until we arrived at a small knob with a spectacular view of the glaciers on Mt. Adams’ northeast face (Lava, Lyman, and Wilson). Here we enjoyed a delicious meal of instant mashed potatoes mixed with green chiles and an entire bag of bacon bits while listening to the roar of the creek.

A muddy stream emerges from beneath a snowfield on the north flank of Mt. Adams. The holes illustrate why you should never try to cross such a snowfield on foot this late in the season!

Our best wildlife sighting of the trip actually occurred on the drive to the trailhead, when we happened upon a young barred owl sitting in the road. As we approached it flew into a nearby tree where it watched us warily for a few minutes before fleeing deeper into the forest:

Barred owl (Strix varia), Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington

Aside from this, we saw surprisingly little wildlife on this trip (unless you count mosquitos): only a few birds, chipmunks, squirrels, and a single marmot and mountain goat in the far distance from our first camp.

From our second camp, we were in a great position to catch sunrise on the final morning of our trip. There aren’t many things I’ll get up at 5:15 am for, but a Mt. Adams sunrise is definitely one of them!

Lyman Glacier at sunrise

After packing up, we hiked the eight downhill miles back to our car and drove back into the 100 degree blast furnace that is the Yakima Valley in late-July. We are thankful to have beautiful places like Mt. Adams so close to escape the heat this time of year!


Adventures with a telephoto lens (Part 2)

Here is installment #2 of recent photos taken with my new (well, new to me…used by someone else first) Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR telephoto lens:

Bighorn sheep, Naches, WA. This photos effectively captures the reach of this lens, as these sheep were about a mile away and a thousand vertical feet above me when I took this photo.
Reflections along the Carbon River, Mt. Rainier National Park, WA
Tiny mushrooms, Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge, WA
Bullfrogs on a log, Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge, WA
A red-tailed hawk in the rain, Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge, WA. I was taking pictures of the frogs in the previous photo when another hiker alerted me to the presence of this hawk about ~10 feet above my head.
Moss-covered nest, Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge, WA
California Quail, Yakima, WA
Mt. Hood rises above The Dalles, OR as seen from across the Columbia River in Washington.
Juvenile Great Horned Owl, Yakima, WA. This was actually a somewhat alarming experience, as this young owl was sitting on the ground just a few feet off the trail. It made its presence known by aggressively clacking its beak and puffing up its feathers. I initially thought it was a badger or some other mammal before realizing that it was an owl. We retreated a little ways down the trail before looking back to capture this photo.
We found the adults nearby: one in a tree…
…another blending in with the rocks…
…along with a second juvenile!
A week later, I returned and saw just one of the juveniles, now complete with ear tufts (the “horns”)!
A mountain goat expresses skepticism regarding our appearance on a remote mesa in the Wenatchee National Forest, WA
A rare Pacific Northwest thunderstorm builds over the Ahtanum State Forest, WA
Blue Camas (Camassia quamash), Ahtanum State Forest, WA

Wildflower Season 2023

In recent years, the onset of wildflower season has been the catalyst for reviving my photography habit (and thus, this blog) from the dead each spring. That has certainly been true again this year (though my recent purchase of a new telephoto lens may have also played a role…) as the hills of central Washington have been awash in green grass and a riot of colorful flowers for much of the past month. The show is fantastic, but fleeting. Today on my drive home from work, I noticed that the hillsides have already taken a turn toward the brown as temperatures warm and the early season grasses begin to die back. Fortunately, by heading up into the mountains, one can follow the flowers all the way into July and August in the higher elevations of the Cascades.

Here are some of my favorite photos from the past month:

Arrowleaf balsamroot (Balsamorhiza sagittata), Snow Mountain Ranch, Yakima, WA
Grass widows (Olsynium douglasii), Cowiche Canyon, WA
Poet’s shooting star (Primula poetica), Klickitat River, WA
Showy phlox (Phlox speciosa), Snow Mountain Ranch, Yakima, WA
Spring wildflowers bloom at Columbia Hills State Park, WA, with Mt. Hood in the distance.
Yellow fritillary (Fritillaria pudica) and bluebells (Mertensia sp.), Snow Mountain Ranch, Yakima, WA
Lupine (Lupinus sp.) bouquet at Columbia Hills State Park, WA
Wildflowers coat the hillside at Snow Mountain Ranch near Yakima, WA
Lupine (Lupnius sp.) and large-flower triteleia (Triteleia grandiflora), Columbia River Gorge, WA
One of my favorite wildflowers, the elusive chocolate lily (Fritillaria affinis), Columbia River Gorge, WA
Wildflowers line the trail at Columbia Hills State Park, WA
Hikers traverse slopes covered in arrowleaf balsamroot (Balsamorhiza sagittata), Snow Mountain Ranch, Yakima, WA
Wildflower covered slopes, Columbia Hills State Park, WA
Upland larkspur (Delphinium nuttallianum), Klickitat River, WA
Grass widows (Olsynium douglasii), Cowiche Canyon, WA
Columbia Hills State Park, WA